Thamel, Kathmandu: My Ultimate Travel Guide to the Heart of Nepal

Chilling out at Pumpernickel Bakery in Thamel, Kathmandu

It is no secret that Nepal is one of my favourite destinations on the planet, and you can see why by seeing the awe-struck Annapurna at Poon Hill to trekking the Langtang Valley and exploring the winding alleys of Thamel or soaking in the spiritual energy at Swayambhunath, this place has everything.

Traditionally, in my YouTube videos, I showcase the best of a place I have visited with videos and photos. However, weirdly, I do not have enough content to make a great video of Thamel or Kathmandu as a whole, but I have tons of content to share in written form.

I stayed in Thamel, Kathmandu, for a combined five weeks during two visits in 2018 and 2023, so I know the area well and have some cool spots for you to check out.

In this blog, I want to cover my favourite restaurants, cafes, sights, and accommodations in Thamel, Kathmandu.

Nepal requires things to note as you navigate around the city of Kathmandu and the country; these will also be included.

Essentially, this will be an all-inclusive travel guide to one of my favourite cities in the world.

Below is my current YouTube video on my recommendations for some of my favourite cafes and restaurants to visit when staying in Thamel.

Let’s crack on with my guide.

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Where is Thamel, and why here?

Thamel is a lively and vibrant neighborhood located in the heart of Kathmandu, Nepal's capital city. Just a short distance from Kathmandu's historical and cultural landmarks,

Thamel has long been the go-to spot for travelers seeking to experience the city’s unique blend of tradition and modernity.

Staying in Thamel offers numerous advantages. First, its central location makes it incredibly convenient for exploring Kathmandu.

Whether you’re planning to visit ancient temples like Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple) or Durbar Square, or setting out on a trek to the Himalayas, Thamel serves as the perfect base.

Thamel is also a hub of activity, filled with an eclectic mix of restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops. Here, you can find everything from traditional Nepali cuisine to international dishes, as well as an array of handmade crafts, souvenirs, trekking gear, and books.

The neighborhood has a lively nightlife scene, with live music, cultural performances, and cozy pubs where you can unwind after a day of exploration.

Moreover, Thamel is a melting pot of cultures, where you can meet travelers from all over the world, exchange stories, and gain insights into Nepalese life.

Despite its busy streets, it offers a range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly hostels to boutique hotels, ensuring that you’ll find a comfortable place to stay no matter your budget.

In short, Thamel is the beating heart of Kathmandu—a place where the city's rich history, vibrant culture, and modern conveniences converge, making it an ideal place to stay for any traveler.

Where should you stay?

I have stayed at three locations in Kathmandu, two of which are hostels and the other being a hotel. The best hostel I stayed at is called Planet Nomad Hostel, which you can book here with Hostelworld.

Planet Nomad Hostel

Planet Nomad Hostel is a vibrant and modern hostel situated in the heart of Thamel, Kathmandu, designed with the adventurous traveler in mind. The hostel blends contemporary design with a cozy, welcoming atmosphere, making it a favorite among solo travelers, digital nomads, and backpackers.

Accommodation options at Planet Nomad range from mixed and female-only dorms to private rooms, all of which are clean, spacious, and equipped with modern amenities. Each bed in the dorms comes with a personal locker, reading light, and power outlet, ensuring comfort and convenience.

The hostel is also known for its friendly and helpful staff, who go out of their way to assist guests with everything from travel tips and local recommendations to organizing tours and treks.

Here are two more recommendations from people we know who have stayed at these hostels and ones I would consider booking next time we go to Kathmandu.

Zostel Kathmandu

Zostel Kathmandu is part of the well-known Zostel chain, offering a perfect blend of comfort and community in the heart of Thamel. This hostel is designed with a vibrant, youthful vibe, featuring bright murals and cozy common areas where travelers can socialize or unwind. Zostel offers both dormitory-style rooms and private rooms, all of which are clean and well-maintained. The rooftop terrace is a highlight, offering panoramic views of Kathmandu’s skyline, perfect for chilling out with a book or chatting with fellow travelers. With its central location, you’re just steps away from the best cafes, bars, and shops in Thamel.

Alobar1000 Hostel

Alobar1000 is a popular choice among backpackers looking for a lively, social atmosphere. The hostel features a variety of dorm rooms and private rooms, catering to different budgets and preferences. The common areas are spacious and include a rooftop terrace with stunning views of the surrounding mountains—a great spot for morning yoga or evening drinks. Alobar1000 also organizes various activities, such as city tours, hiking trips, and cultural events, making it easy to connect with other travelers and experience the best of Kathmandu. Its location in Thamel means you’re never far from the action, with restaurants, bars, and shops right at your doorstep.

To conclude, hostels offer some amazing deals. For Planet Nomad, we booked in for nearly two weeks to save money, as the private room was $10 CAD a night—a bargain! If you are staying in dorm rooms then you can save some money and have the time of your life meeting other backpackers and still having great facilities.

My three restaurants of choice in Thamel

1. Momo Star

Momo Star Restaurant in Thamel is a hidden gem that has earned a loyal following among locals and travelers alike for its delicious and authentic Nepalese dumplings, known as momos. Tucked away in a cozy corner of Thamel’s bustling streets, this unpretentious eatery is all about great food and a welcoming atmosphere.

The restaurant's decor is simple and charming, with traditional Nepalese touches that create a warm and inviting ambiance. Despite its modest size, Momo Star is often buzzing with activity, a testament to its popularity.

The menu primarily focuses on momos, offering a variety of fillings that cater to both vegetarians and meat lovers. Whether you prefer your momos steamed, fried, or served in a flavorful broth, Momo Star delivers with generous portions and rich flavors.

Beyond momos, the restaurant also offers other classic Nepalese dishes like thukpa (noodle soup) and chow mein, making it a great spot for those looking to explore local cuisine.

Honestly, their vegetable curry is the best-flavoured curry I have ever eaten, and I miss it every day. I have no idea what is different about the gravy, but whatever it is, it made me go back every day while in Thamel.

2. New Orleans Cafe

New Orleans Cafe in Thamel is a beloved spot that brings a touch of Southern charm to the vibrant streets of Kathmandu. Known for its laid-back vibe and eclectic menu, this café has been a favorite among both locals and travelers for years. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring, offering a mix of good food, live music, and a relaxed atmosphere.

Despite Nepali food being one of my favourites in the world, I sometimes need a break from it, and New Orleans is the perfect place for Western food.

We visited a lot during our first and a few times during our second visits. We love the comfy chairs, live music, and location, and this is the perfect place to catch up with other travellers and swap stories on your hikes or travels within Nepal.

3. Pesa Newari Kitchen

Pesa Newari Kitchen in Thamel offers a genuine and immersive culinary experience centred around Newari cuisine, the traditional food of the Newar community of the Kathmandu Valley. This restaurant is a hidden treasure for those looking to explore Nepal's rich and diverse flavours in an authentic setting.

The ambiance at Pesa Newari Kitchen is cozy and traditional, with decor that reflects Newari culture through art, wooden carvings, and subtle, warm lighting. The seating arrangement is simple, often featuring traditional low tables and floor cushions that enhance the cultural experience, making you feel like you’ve stepped into a Newari household.

When you grab a menu, it can be overwhelming, but at low prices, you can visit often, so pick a random dish, give it a go, and then try something different next time. We had their momos as well as Samay Baji, a traditional Newari feast that features a variety of items like beaten rice, barbecued meat, spiced lentil patties, and pickles, all meticulously prepared to showcase the balance of taste and texture that defines Newari cuisine.

Another must-try is Yomari, a sweet steamed dumpling filled with molasses and sesame seeds, a Newari delicacy.

Many restaurants claim to be traditional in Kathmandu, and their menus are geared toward Western tourists, but this place is as genuine as it gets.

My three coffees of choice in Thamel

1. Himalayan Java Coffee

Himalayan Java Coffee in Thamel is a beloved institution for coffee lovers and travelers alike, offering a perfect blend of quality coffee, cozy ambiance, and a vibrant social scene. As one of Nepal’s first specialty coffee chains, Himalayan Java has established itself as a go-to spot in Kathmandu, known for its commitment to serving some of the finest coffee in the region.

Located in the bustling heart of Thamel, Himalayan Java Coffee provides a much-needed oasis from the lively streets outside. The café’s interior is warm and inviting, featuring a mix of modern and rustic design elements, with comfortable seating, wooden accents, and large windows that let in plenty of natural light. The atmosphere is relaxed yet lively, making it an ideal place for everything from a quick coffee break to a leisurely afternoon of people-watching or catching up on work.

What truly sets Himalayan Java apart is its coffee. Sourced from the high-altitude regions of Nepal, the beans are carefully selected and roasted to perfection, resulting in a rich, flavorful brew.

The menu offers a wide range of coffee options, from classic espresso-based drinks like lattes and cappuccinos to signature blends and cold brews. For those looking to try something uniquely local, the Nepali coffee is a must-try, showcasing the distinct flavors of the region.

In addition to coffee, Himalayan Java also serves a variety of teas, fresh juices, and a selection of light bites, including sandwiches, pastries, and desserts. The café often attracts a diverse crowd, including locals, expats, and tourists, all drawn by the promise of great coffee and a welcoming environment.

Whether you’re starting your day with a strong cup of coffee, taking a break from exploring Thamel, or looking for a spot to connect with fellow travelers, Himalayan Java Coffee is the perfect place to recharge and enjoy the vibrant energy of Kathmandu.

2. Pumpernickel Bakery

Pumpernickel Bakery in Thamel is a charming and cozy haven for those seeking freshly baked goods and a relaxing atmosphere in the heart of Kathmandu. Known for its quality pastries, breads, and a variety of light meals, Pumpernickel Bakery has become a favorite stop for both locals and travelers who appreciate a taste of home in a foreign land.

The bakery’s setting is warm and inviting, with a rustic European feel. Inside, you’ll find a comfortable seating area with wooden tables, cushioned chairs, and an open layout that lets in natural light, creating a serene environment that’s perfect for enjoying a quiet breakfast, lunch, or an afternoon snack. The ambiance is further enhanced by the smell of freshly baked bread, which fills the air and adds to the cozy vibe.

Pumpernickel Bakery is renowned for its wide selection of baked goods, including freshly baked breads, croissants, muffins, and pastries. Their multigrain and whole wheat breads are particularly popular, offering a hearty and healthy option for those looking for something substantial. The almond croissants and cinnamon rolls are also crowd favorites, perfect for a sweet treat with your morning coffee.

In addition to baked goods, the bakery serves a variety of light meals, such as sandwiches, quiches, salads, and soups, all made with fresh, high-quality ingredients. The menu caters to a range of dietary preferences, with plenty of vegetarian options available. To accompany your meal, Pumpernickel offers a selection of beverages, including freshly brewed coffee, teas, and refreshing juices.

The bakery also has a lovely outdoor seating area, where you can enjoy your food in the tranquil surroundings of a shaded garden—a perfect spot to relax and escape the bustling streets of Thamel. The friendly and attentive staff add to the welcoming atmosphere, ensuring that you have a pleasant dining experience.

Pumpernickel Bakery is more than just a place to grab a bite; it’s a little slice of comfort in Kathmandu, where you can indulge in delicious baked goods, sip on a hot cup of coffee, and take a moment to unwind amidst your travels. Whether you’re a fan of baked treats or simply looking for a peaceful spot to enjoy a meal, Pumpernickel Bakery is a must-visit in Thamel.

3. Himalaya Arabica Beans Cafe

Himalaya Arabica Beans Cafe in Thamel is a delightful spot for coffee aficionados and travelers who appreciate a laid-back atmosphere paired with high-quality brews. This cozy café is a hidden gem in the bustling streets of Kathmandu, offering a serene escape where you can savor expertly crafted coffee made from locally sourced beans.

The café’s interior exudes warmth and simplicity, with a focus on creating a welcoming environment for guests. Wooden furnishings, comfortable seating, and soft lighting create a cozy ambiance, making it an ideal place to relax, catch up on reading, or chat with friends. The walls are often adorned with local artwork and photography, adding a touch of cultural flair to the space.

At Himalaya Arabica Beans Cafe, the star of the show is undoubtedly the coffee. The café specializes in brewing 100% Arabica coffee sourced from the lush hills of Nepal. The beans are carefully selected and roasted to perfection, resulting in a rich and aromatic cup of coffee that highlights the unique flavors of the region. Whether you prefer a strong espresso, a smooth cappuccino, or a refreshing iced coffee, the menu offers a variety of options to satisfy your caffeine cravings.

In addition to coffee, the café also serves a selection of teas, fresh juices, and light snacks. Their homemade cakes and pastries are particularly popular, providing a sweet complement to your coffee. For those looking for something savory, the café offers a small but tasty menu of sandwiches, wraps, and salads, all made with fresh ingredients.

One of the highlights of Himalaya Arabica Beans Cafe is its outdoor seating area, where you can enjoy your coffee in the fresh air while watching the world go by. This space is a peaceful retreat from the lively energy of Thamel, allowing you to unwind and soak in the laid-back vibe of the café.

With its focus on quality coffee, a relaxing atmosphere, and friendly service, Himalaya Arabica Beans Cafe is a must-visit for anyone looking to enjoy a great cup of coffee in the heart of Kathmandu. Whether you’re starting your day with a morning brew or taking a break from exploring the city, this café offers the perfect setting to recharge and savor the flavors of Nepal.

The view of Kathmandu on our hostel rooftop

My three places you have to see in Kathmandu

1. Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)

Swayambhunath, often referred to as the Monkey Temple, is one of Kathmandu’s most iconic landmarks. Perched atop a hill, it offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding valley. The stupa is adorned with a large, golden dome and a pair of large, painted eyes, which are said to symbolize the omniscient nature of Buddha. The surrounding complex includes numerous monasteries, shrines, and vibrant prayer flags. The temple’s name derives from the large population of monkeys that inhabit the site, adding a unique charm to the spiritual atmosphere.

Tip: Get your comfy walking boots on, as this is a trek uphill with hundreds of steps. Make sure you don’t carry anything like sodas or fruit as you walk up, as the monkeys will yank it off your hands in a shot.
Thoughts: Sensational views at the top of the temple overlooking Kathmandu. We walked from Thamel to the site, and this was a forty-five-minute walk, which is quite tricky in Kathmandu as there are no pavements to walk on, so you are constantly dodging cars and people. However, you won’t regret making the effort as you see Kathmandu in all its glory. As a bonus, walk up for sunset to get that hazy glow over the city.

2. Boudhanath Stupa

Boudhanath Stupa is one of the largest and most important stupas in Nepal, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and a center of Tibetan culture in Kathmandu. The stupa is a massive mandala, with a central dome and a towering spire adorned with colorful prayer flags. The surrounding area is bustling with shops, monasteries, and cafes, offering a deep dive into Tibetan Buddhist culture. Circumambulating the stupa while spinning prayer wheels is a common practice among visitors and devotees.

Tip: When you have finished your walk around the site, pick out a rooftop bar to sink in a coffee and enjoy the views. You will gain an extra appreciation for this place.
Thoughts: This stupa is my favourite thing to see in Kathmandu. It is closed off from the main street, so when you walk in, there are only people who have paid to go in (tourists or locals). This makes it a much more enjoyable walk, and you can’t help but be impressed with this marvel. I love looking at this temple and hearing the sounds around it. It is a true representation of Nepali culture in the heart of Kathmandu.

3. Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath Temple is one of the holiest Hindu temples in Nepal and a major spiritual landmark in Kathmandu. Situated on the banks of the Bagmati River, this UNESCO World Heritage site is dedicated to Lord Shiva, one of the principal deities in Hinduism. The temple's main structure is a large pagoda-style shrine with a golden roof and richly adorned wooden carvings. The central deity, Lord Shiva, is represented in the form of a linga (a symbol of Shiva) and is believed to be the guardian of all creatures.

Tip: This place will be super busy at peak times, so try to go early to miss the crowds, preferably on a weekday. If you want a deeper understanding of the history, you can rent a guide for your visit.
Thoughts: One of the most sacred and important sites in Nepal and a must for any visitor. I have seen a lot of temples in my time, but this one is very impressive, and you must be prepared to be open-minded as you visit the site. Pay your respects and respect the Nepali people.

The Boudanath Stupa view from a rooftop with a coffee

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Some essential tips for navigating Kathmandu.

Public transport

Kathmandu is busy, dusty, and chaotic, with plenty of options for buses or taxis. I would advise arranging a taxi from the airport with your hostel or hotel you have already booked. They will be able to pick you up for an extra price, giving you an early introduction to the chaos of Nepalese roads.

For taxis around the city, you can flag down taxis, but be prepared to barter. They will charge you a much higher price, so you must negotiate every time. We used the Pathao app to book our transport if we were not walking, and this is like Uber. The beauty of this app is that you get to see the normal price for a journey, so if there is not an available ride, you can use that price when bartering for a taxi on the street.

Local buses are cheap and busy with locals. You will usually be advised to take ‘tourist’ buses, but these are more expensive and slightly more comfortable. We walked around Thamel all the time and even to other sites around the city, so it all depends on how much walking in the dust you are prepared to do.

ESim or SIM card providers

In Nepal, I would use GigSky as my esim provider, which you can order here. They offer very competitive rates with popular perks such as free use of 100 in an emergency, no internet required to update your app with a new plan, and customer service options if you need to talk to someone.

For physical SIM cards, there are two main providers: NCell and NTC. NCell is the easiest to set up, and I went with those guys. I walked to a local Thamel dealer, who provided the plan and SIM card. It was sorted within minutes. NTC would be better if you spend much time in the mountains. Both have super cheap plans and great internet. Having a Nepali phone number would be useful, too, if you are booking anything locally.

Language

All the locals widely speak English; however, a few words in Nepali would go a long way to endear yourself to the locals.

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Summary of Thamel, Kathmandu

Kathmandu almost feels like home in Asia for me, alongside Bangkok.

I know the streets so well, even after the five-year gap from my first visit, and Nepal as a country just enchants me.

I love the people, the food, the trekking, the temples and the smell. There is something so special about the Himalayas.

Travelling to that part of the world is never a bad idea.

I also want to make the point that you don’t have to go to Nepal to trek. On our first visit, we ended up visiting Pokhara, Chitwan National Park, Bhaktapur, and many other places.

Of course, we have also hiked the Annapurna Circuit and the Langtang Valley, which are incredible, by the way, and areas you should consider visiting.

Nepal has so many options, and I haven’t even visited Lukla or the Everest Region, so there is much more to explore.

The roads in Nepal are some of the worst in the world, and I had my fair share of near misses, but this is something you will have to accept as the safety record of airlines in Nepal isn’t great either.

However, Thamel is a classic place to be based if you are a backpacker looking to settle into Nepali life.

This will settle you in as there are so many familiar cafes, restaurants, hostels, travellers and trekking shops to get you kitted out. Don’t forget to barter.

I love the place, and we always miss the food and the people. It is somewhere I could go back to every year, so you should definitely add this to your list of places to visit.