My trek in the breathtaking Langtang Valley, with stunning views, tired legs, and endless Dal Bhat.

Stunning views of Kyanjin Gompa in Langtang Valley

After a 5-year hiatus, we finally returned to Nepal and Kathmandu and are pretty excited about it. Our plan? The stunning Langtang Valley, nestled in the heart of the Himalayas in Nepal.

We had visited Nepal previously to hike the Annapurna, and this time, we are back to attempt the Langtang Valley. I have a love/hate relationship with hiking, and this journey isn’t short of drama either.

This is a blog on my unforgettable trek through the breathtaking Langtang Valley in Nepal. Starting from Syabrubesi, we'll journey through lush forests, cross suspension bridges, and visit charming Tamang villages. Experience the serene beauty of Kyanjin Gompa, where the towering peaks of Langtang Lirung and surrounding glaciers create a stunning backdrop.

We returned to Nepal for the first time in five years, and I am buzzing to be back. I instantly knew I was returning to one of my favourite countries when I smelt the dust and heard the traffic in the taxi from the airport to the hotel in Thamel.

Five years ago, we hiked the Annapurna Circuit and visited Pokhara, Chitwan National Park, Kathmandu, and other places around the country. This time, we visited Kathmandu and the Langtang Valley. We had been craving Dal Bhat every day since the last time we visited, and we had it every day in Nepal this time, including in Langtang on the trek.

Officially, a law in Nepal requires a guide when trekking in national parks and trails like this, so we had one for our journey. Whether this is enforced is another conversation and depends on the area you are trekking in Nepal.

This was a 9-day trek with a rest day in the middle of the journey, and it didn't come without drama on the second day.

The Langtang Valley trek can be challenging, with steep ascents and changing weather conditions. But the rewards are immense. Every step brings you closer to nature, and the views are simply out of this world.

The Langtang Valley offers more than just a trek; it's an experience of a lifetime filled with natural beauty, cultural richness, and personal growth.

Let’s go hiking!

Watch my episode on the Langtang Valley today!

Things to make note of when planning a trip to hike the Langtang Valley

Below are some points to consider when wanting to hike in Nepal; I have completed two of the main ones in the Annapurna and now Langtang, so I feel I am in good stead to pass on some advice.

1. Do you need a guide?

Yes and no is the answer to this question. When we hiked the Annapurna Circuit five years ago, there was no need for a guide, but we did. We had two guides for peace of mind. A more recent rule is in place, and every national park area and hiking route will need a guide. However, there has been opposition to this rule from locals who own hotels and businesses in these areas. Each division of the country has a different level of enforcement than the other; for example, the Everest Region is not enforcing much compared to Langtang, where we had to check in with the checkpoints. Do you physically need one for Langtang in terms of the terrain? Absolutely not. The path is well-marked and relatively easy compared to some other hikes. So you must decide whether to invest in a guide or ‘risk’ not having one on the ground in Kathmandu.

Tip: If you invest in a guide, your hotel or hostel can generally arrange that for you. Be sure to check the guide’s credentials. You can tip the guide after the hike for between $10 and $25 a day for the group.
Thoughts: This is a tough one! I would say we didn’t need a guide for Langtang because it is easy to follow the trail and arrange accommodation, with so many options available at each checkpoint. I met some hikers in Kyanjin Gompa who had no guide when hiking and were not apprehended when approaching checkpoints.

2. What kit do I need for the hike?

Each individual needs to consider this, but there are some basics you will need for Langtang Valley.

Top-quality hiking boots: Make sure you have top-quality hiking boots worn over time. I have Saloman Boots, and they never let me down. These will support your aching feet along the way.
Reusable water bottle with filter: I took one with me, but for some reason, I bought bottled water at 300 Rupees a go, which is very expensive. This was a trust issue, as I did not want to get sick. However, I used it several times and was fine; I should have used it more often.
Cash: You will get booked into guesthouses and hotels along the way, which will only take cash. US dollars or Rupees are fine, but make sure you have enough, as you will need to work out the amount you need for your trek. Remember to include your tip for the guide in this too.
Snacks: Food costs much more in the valley, so stock up on snacks in Syabrubesi before you start your trek. There are plenty of shops that sell goods at normal Nepalese prices. Stash chocolate, energy bars, and sweets to give you that boost on the trek.
Warm clothing: At the start of the hike, you will be walking in pleasant summery weather, but as you approach the higher altitudes, it will get much colder. Pack a proper raincoat, leggings, warm socks and a jacket to keep yourself warm. The guesthouses will have cozy fires in the dining area, keeping you nice and warm, but your bedrooms could get very cold at night.
Sunglasses and suncream: On this trek, you will often be exposed to the sun, so protect your eyes and skin.
Hiking poles: These are a must for me as I need them to get uphill on the difficult parts of the hike. Be sure to buy some in Kathmandu and haggle for the right price.
Camera: En route, there are some stunning views, and as you reach the top of the valley, you do not want to miss anything!
A friendly demeanour: The Nepalese are some of the friendliest people you will meet, so be sure to act kindly. Ask the local owners questions, compliment them on their amazing food, be inquisitive, and get to know the people. This will only enhance your trip.

3. What should my level of fitness be for the hike?

I am not the best hiker or the fittest person in the world, but I am mentally strong. The second day will be the toughest as you climb 1000m altitude, so you must be pretty fit to get up those steps. These treks are not plain sailing in terms of the trail; there will be rocks to step over, steep ascents and sharp declines, too. If you have a good basic fitness level, you will be fine. You will need to keep an eye on altitude sickness, too.

Tip: Get hiking a local mountain or area to gain some fitness; I didn’t do too much training for this hike, so if I can do so, so can you, but being that little bit extra fit will always help you.
Thoughts: I met all kinds of people on the trek. Tor was trail-running the trek with a guide, meaning he was running every day. He had to search for a trail runner guide, and he ran from Kathmandu and back! A retired American doctor well into his 60s with a dodgy knee hired a guide who had climbed Mount Everest twice! A real mix of all ages attempted this hike to reach the top of Kyanjin Gompa.

What is the itinerary?

Day 1: Kathmandu to Syabrubesi (1,550 meters)

Travel: 7-8 hours by bus or jeep
Activities: Scenic drive through beautiful landscapes, passing terraced fields and rural villages.
Overnight: Syabrubesi - The Rising Sun Hotel

Day 2: Syabrubesi to Pairo Hotel (1,800 meters)

Trek: 2-3 hours
Activities: Begin trek, crossing suspension bridges over the Bhote Koshi River and trekking through rhododendron and oak forests.
Overnight: Pairo Hotel (we had to stay here due to Emma getting ill then heading back to Kathmandu the day after)

Day 3: Pairo Hotel to Riverside (2,700 meters)

Trek: 6-7 hours
Activities: Ascend through dense forests, with a lot of steps to navigate.
Overnight: Riverside Hotel

Day 4: Riverside to Langtang Village (3,430 meters)

Trek: 3-4 hours
Activities: Trekking through the dense forests, occasional glimpses of Langtang Lirung, and pass by Ghoda Tabela before reaching Langtang Village.
Overnight: Langtang Village

Day 5: Rest day in Langtang Village

Activities: I hung out with Mipsang at The Himalayan Bakery and Cafe and got some rest for the legs.
Overnight: Langtang Village

Day 6: Langtang Village to Kyanjin Gompa (3,870 meters)

Trek: 3-4 hours
Activities: Trek through yak pastures and small villages, visit the famous Kyanjin Gompa monastery and local cheese factory.
Overnight: Kyanjin Gompa

Day 7: Kyanjin Gompa to Lama Hotel (2,380 meters)

Trek: 6-7 hours
Activities: Retrace steps back to Lama Hotel, enjoying the descent and the changing perspectives of the landscape.
Overnight: Friendly Guesthouse

Day 8: Lama Hotel to Syabrubesi (1,550 meters)

Trek: 5-6 hours
Activities: Continue descending through forests and villages, arrive back in Syabrubesi.
Overnight: Syabrubesi

Day 9: Syabrubesi to Kathmandu

Travel: 8-9 hours by bus
Activities: Return drive to Kathmandu, transfer to hotel, and rest.
Overnight: Kathmandu

What foods did I eat on the trek?

Nepal’s cuisine is one of my favourites in the world, and this is one of the best things about this hike. The freshly cooked each day was healthy and aided me on the hike.

For breakfast, I stuck to the trusted vegetable omelette and coffee. Each guesthouse and hotel will serve this in the morning alongside chow mein or something similar.

For lunches, I stuck to various types of vegetable curries with rice. I also dipped into chow mein, as I love it.

There are plenty of options for the evening, but you should only choose one, in my opinion. That is Dal Bhat. This dish consists of rice, vegetable curry, dal (lentil soup), pickled vegetables, leafy greens and the odd papad. Delicious!

This is my favourite and the favourite of the locals in Nepal. Each guesthouse will have its version at a reasonable cost, and it is usually all-you-can-eat, so fill your boots!

Each guesthouse along the trek will have a menu with plenty of options so it will cater to most people; they also have snacks you can buy, such as chocolate bars and chips. Each stop-off point has fruit, too, and the bananas were unreal up there, so make sure you tuck into those, too!

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My top three favourite parts of the trek?

These are three specific favourites of mine for various reasons.

1. Kyanjin Gompa

This place is exceptional! When you get to the top, you will not believe your eyes! Stunning scenery is everywhere you look, and more than likely, you will have a rooftop in your guesthouse, so be sure to get up there with a coffee and soak up the views. You can do day hikes from here to Kyanjin Ri (4,773 meters) or Tserko Ri (4,984 meters) for panoramic views, but I was exhausted from the uphill hike. Like Langtang, a cafe here that makes espresso coffee and cake is called the Kyanjin Gompa Bakery and Cafe, where I met some super-cool travellers and backpackers. What a place!

2. Mipsang, the owner of the Himalayan Bakery and Cafe

Getting to Langtang Village was one of my first goals, so I planned a rest day there, which involved hanging out with Mipsang, who owns the Himalayan Bakery and Cafe. He also serves espresso coffee and cake. We chatted for hours about his life in Langtang, his family, his future dreams, the devastating earthquake that affected his family, his love for sport, and his amazing cakes. His great-aunt walked into the cafe while chatting; she is in her 90s and survived the landslide. A charming guy, so be sure to say hello!

3. Pairo Hotel

This would be an unusual choice, but Emma was not feeling well after the first morning of the hike, resulting in her returning to Kathmandu. However, the hospitality shown by the owners and family who work there was extraordinary. They prepared a room for us to stay in, provided us with wifi, served us amazing food, chatted with us in their dining room, and I even gave them some medicine for one of the guys there who was not feeling too well. Unfortunately, I forgot the owner's name, but I will never forget how kind he was, and as a side note, the bananas he sells are out of this world.

My thoughts on my journey through the Langtang Valley

What a journey!

Despite not being the best hiker, I made it to the top and am pretty proud of myself. Surpurna, my guide, worried about me on Day 2 of the hike due to my heavy breathing going uphill.

He said he thought I might not make it. Come on, Surpurna, I was always making it! He was a great help, too, encouraging me along the way.

The morning leaving Langtang Village was glorious as the sunshine was out, and the clouds had disappeared.

I couldn’t believe what I was seeing, and I was starting to get worried that the perfect views would not arrive due to the weather conditions.

However, from that moment on, every step was breathtaking.

I was in awe of this place.

You feel pretty small as you wander in between these vast mountains.

Along the way you are also reminded of the dangers of hiking as s there are little shrines of people who had perished in the landslide from the earthquake, you do not take this hike for granted.

Kyanjin Gompa was something I had never witnessed before.

When hiking the Annapurna, you feel quite far away from the mountains, but here, I felt right in the middle of them, and it was inspiring.

How incredible is nature?

As unreal as nature was, the people were even better. Everyone was friendly, willing to talk with you, cooking amazing food, and always being there for tea. What a dream.

The Langtang Valley Trek was almost perfect, except that Emma wasn’t there. It was heartbreaking and saddens me today, but we made the right call.

You can not continue if you don’t feel close to 100%, as the altitude will make it more challenging!

She would have loved it, but it just means we must go back, oh well!

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One final note on Nepal

We have spent two months in Nepal and will never tire of the place.

You have to visit one time in your life.

There are plenty of trekking options for all differing levels of ability. Whether you want to spend two days on the Annapurna or trek at Everest Base Camp, there is something for everyone.

The people make Nepal. They are unique and a special nation regarding humility, resilience, respect, and fun. They know how to look after you, guide you, and be your friend. They are genuine.

When you get to Kathmandu and look to book your hike or trip, trust your guesthouse owner to arrange anything you need; they always know someone.

Not everything is great in Nepal; they have some of the worst roads in the world. The bus ride from Syabrubesi to Kathmandu took 9 hours, and the journey was only 122 km.

There have been some near-death experiences, too, so either be prepared or get the jeep at a much higher cost.

The food is incredible; it was all we talked about when we made our journey there from Oman the second time around.

We miss Dal Bhat every day! I want it now as I write this blog—my favourite dish worldwide.

Thamel in Kathmandu is the usual haunt for all backpackers and hikers to hang out in; some trendy cafes serve Western food, great English Breakfast and great coffee. Be sure to spend some time there, as it is super fun!

Nepal would never be a bad decision for a trip.

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